Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Sew Simple A1636, Tutorial Part 2

Hi
Yesterday was a great day and a very full day.  We started Sew Simple pattern A1636.  Yesterday we cut the pattern out in fabric and began the preparation work for the construction of the dress today.  So let's continue where we left off.

For a dress like this, I will admit that I would be able to make it in about 2 or 3 hours, but I wanted to share this very easy pattern with the beginning sewists.  This dress is a good way to quickly maximize your wardrobe potential without the expense of driving to the mall (price, gas, time) and without buying the most expensive fabric in the fabric store.  This pattern let's you be the boss of your price and personal style.

Ok, here we go.  Yesterday we ended with prep work, so for today we will continue with construction and the finish for the big reveal.  In  the pattern step1 says to stay-stitch the front and back at the neck.  I used my serger, but for those who do not have a serger, it's ok, don't sweat it.  Just use a zig-zag stitch to secure your edges.  This keeps your neck area from stretching while you sew.
The second part of step1 is to stitch between the 2 dots on the front bodice.  Hint: Stitch 2 rows. This makes for a cleaner pull and better gathers when gathers are called for.
Step2: Stitch bodice front to bodice back at the shoulders.  If you are looking at the instructions illustration3 shows you that you will be using the facing that you prepped yesterday, so to save time go ahead and stitch those after you are done connecting the bodice front to the back.  When you are done press your seams open on your facing and your bodice pieces.
After you have pressed both pieces, take the facing and stitch a zig-zag stitch/ serge along the outer edge.  Then turn under the stitched edge 1/4", press, then stitch.  This step is done before you connect the facing to the bodice (less fabric to work with).
Once you have completed the edging of your facing, it's time to connect it to the bodice.  Start with the seam lines first, then make sure your notches and markings are matching.  If they aren't matching, now it the time to straighten them out.

When you get all of your markings, notches, and seams fixed, it's time to make your gathers.  Gently pull the bobbin strings to make your gathers.  The strings should be between the 2 dots at the top of the bodice.  Once you have your gathers, adjust them so that they look correct to you.


This is the part where the garment starts taking on life "for me".  Setting the facing means that the party has really begun.  So Step3 says to stitch the facing to the bodice.  Once the facing is connected clip the curves and here is where I can't help but to PRESS.  I like for my fabric to start the behave effect as soon as possible, so press the facing away from the bodice with the seam going in the same direction as the facing.  After you are done pressing you are ready to stitch the facing close to the seam allowance step4.
Like I said, " The facing starts the process for me."  Now, I will look at my progress to make sure I'm on the right track.
Now that I have checked my gathers and shoulder stitches, I will move on. 
With the facing already hemmed the next step is fairly easy.  Take a needle and thread and tack the facing to the shoulder seams and then stitch the side seams.  The bodice part of the construction is almost over.  The excitement continues with the bias tape.  The bias tape is going to secure the armholes.  I used white bias tape because my dress had a white background.  I might could have used another color, but I don't think so with all the colors in this particular fabric and the fact that I wanted a very casual dress.
Bias tape in arm holes, 
The bias tape install if step7 thru 9.  When you've finished installing the bias tape, PRESS.  This concludes the bodice construction.  The only thing I suggest is to stay stitch the bottom while you work on the skirt part of the dress.

The bottom part of the dress is going to be just as easy as the top part.  First, we will place the pockets over the front skirt piece with notches and dots matching.  I also suggest that you do the same thing for the skirt back.  This way you can move from sewing one set of pockets to the next, step10 and 11.   When completed, PRESS the seam toward the skirt front and back.
Stitch the skirt front to the skirt back being sure to match dots, pockets, and hemline.  On step12 the illustrations shows that the pocket is away from the side seam and the seam for the skirt is being stitched parallel to the pocket seam, but it stops at the dot (the red pin just above my pinky).  Make this stitch first, then stitch your pockets together and follow that seam around until you get to the second dot ( just under my wrist).  When you get to the second set of dots, connect the dots and then continue your seam down to the bottom of your skirt.
Guess what?  We are almost done with this project.  I can't wait to see what this looks like on me.  I might just have to forge ahead, so that I can get the anticipation over with.  Alrighty then, I think we were on step13.  Here is where it can get tricky if you aren't paying attention.  If you are confused about which piece is the skirt front and which is the back, the skirt front has wider spaced notches that the back. Hint: Use tailor's chalk on the inside to mark an F/B to let you know the difference between the two. But we are still at step13.  Clip just under the back pocket seam, stay stitch the top of the pocket to the skirt front.  This clip will cause the pocket to lay forward and make step14 easier.  When down clipping, press the pocket toward the skirt front.
 In step14 you will begin some of the final work on this project by connecting the bodice to the skirt.



The results:

Wow, that was a journey. I will be posting a review for this pattern a little later, but I enjoyed the time that you spent with me and I look forward to doing it again soon.  Thank you for stopping by my site.

LOLPOH,,,Dellia