Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Going Vintage, Butterick 5209


Today I am about to get started on a Retro Butterick pattern.  I've had my eye on this pattern for a while,  I have passed it over many times opting for the newer more modern patterns.  Even though this pattern is an updated version or re-release of a vintage pattern by Butterick, it still has an oldie, but goodie tag on it.

Since it's been in my pattern stash for a minute, I just decided to give it a go.  My first thoughts about this pattern is that from the cover things are going to go pretty smooth.  I like that the pattern only has 6 pieces, but I also know that those 6 pieces can mean trouble somewhere.  After reading over the instructions a few times, the construction seems to have a smooth flow to it.  So, here is my fabric choice and all the other goodies that I will need to complete this project.  I have also made my mind up to fully line the dress because the fabric that I am using seems to be a little thin...explanation as I go.

This is the cover photo from Butterick.  I love the colors in this dress.  It has a way of making you look forward to Spring and because this dress is made as a halter you can smoothly transition into Summer.  I have chosen a teal looking color that I believe will be a year round type dress, but still keep in touch with my vintage era.

I've prepped my fabric and my pattern.  The fabric is a rayon blend floral satin in aqua blue.

I've pick the view (B) out that I want.

This is the pattern layout for the view that I have picked.
Now I have to pick my thread out for my straight stitch machine and my serger.  This was rather confusing because the blue that I thought I was going to be able to use did not match the actual fabric.  Here are my thread choices.
The 2 spools of thread to the left were the ones that I had envisioned in my mind, but when I started putting things together there was a purple cast to them when I placed them next to the fabric.  So that set is out.  The second thread from the left was just a little too dark.  It matched the little flower perfectly and it would have added an interesting look to the garment once finished.  BUT,,, that's not what I'm going for with this one.  My final choice was the soft light teal looking thread on the very end of the right.  It blended into the fabric well and it was almost invisible.
 The same misconception happened with the serger thread, but luckily for me I already had a teal looking color that matched the main thread perfectly (the on on the right again).  Now that I have gotten all my ready equipment together I have to actually decide on the size that I am going to use.  I would normally begin with a size 16 and grade either down or up.  Each pattern is different and there will be a few variables that will guide you to the right size for you.  .

Within the pattern itself there are final measurement numbers that should be taken into consideration.  Even though my pattern is cut out, I have not cut the size out because I was still up in the air about the sizing.  So, before I cut or pin, I will go over my measurements and the final measurements of the pattern to make sure which size I want to make.  With this pattern there are only 2 major sizes to worry about, the bodice and the waist.  The skirt is a simple fix because it is a gathered skirt and there will be lots of fabric left for the hips.  But we should check the bust size.. My bust measurement is 40" or 101.5 cm and my waist (don't want to say), but,,,35" or 89 cm.  When you look at the bodice piece is will say that the finished measurement for 40" is a size 16.  The finished measurement for the waist would be a size 20.  Because I go through this with almost every pattern, I already know that my waist is going to be my main focus.  So grading my pattern from a 16 to an almost 20 at the waist is going to take a little ingenuity.

I hate to leave a cliffhanger at this point, but I have a vintage dress to make...I'll be back with you tomorrow so you can see the progress.  Until then,,,