Tuesday, May 27, 2014

DIY Vintage McCall's 9206


Sewing Pattern Review is having a vintage sewing contest.  Well, needless to say, I joined.  I love just about anything vintage and this was the perfect opportunity for me to get into my vintage stash and shuffle things around.

For this contest I chose a simple vintage pattern McCall's 9206.  One contest rule was ,,,IT MUST BE BEFORE 1980.  I think I might be safe with the year mark because the copyright for this pattern is 1968.  Here is a photo with an actual year written on it and possibly who the pattern belonged to at the time.
All of the fabric options were lovely and I had a tough decision between Shantung, Gabardine, and a Jersey.  I went with a double knit.  I pretty much like how this pattern turned out and was very shocked (!?!) to find that there was a Butterick pattern that looked similar to this vintage pattern.  Not to do a lot of rambling because there is talk enough in the Review which I will post here.
Now here's my entry photo collage.
Here's my review.
Supplementary questions:

What year is your pattern from? (Or decade if you can't date it precisely)
 Copyright on the pattern says 1968, but I have a photo attached from another pattern that has a date of 1970 written on the front.

Why did you choose this pattern?
 I love Vintage items and this particular dress reminded me of something that I saw on Bewitched.  I was excited to see a "Real" vintage challenge.

If you used any vintage techniques or fabrics please tell us about them.
 I didn't use anything vintage other than the pattern.  I have not had the privilege at this time to get my hands on any fabric or notions from yesteryear, just patterns and each one excites me and becomes a treasure.

What made this pattern different/more difficult/easier or more interesting than a modern pattern?
 The thing that made this pattern different was that everything was straight to the point.  On the envelope it stated EASY.  The instruction sheet said it was going to be 8 or 9 steps.  To me, this was pretty much how things went.  Here's the catch, the steps were time consuming, yet fun.  Each piece had to be cut out then underlined.  I thought this might be at least 5 steps, but the front yoke needed interfacing at the neck.  This was different to me because I have always put it on the facing.  These steps would be more of what I would call the prep work.

With all the prep work done it was time to start putting this dress together.  The front center panel had to be joined to the 2 outside panels.  The seams were to be pressed open, but I used a serger and pressed my seams to the center.  Once I had those pressed I was able to stitch a 3/8" seam on the outside front.  The same process was used on the front yoke.  I thought this gave a good detail to this dress.  The pattern called for a regular zipper in the back.  I didn't have a regular black 22" zipper, but I did have an invisible one.  So, I went for it with the invisible zipper.  I really wanted to keep this dress in line with what they might have used back in the late 60s, but I just used what was on hand.

The finish work was pretty easy.  I am on the height challenged side, so I knew that I was going to need to cut some of the fabric off the bottom.  I measured before I got started and took off 4".  I really thought they were making this pattern for Twiggy.  I ended up cutting off another 5" in order to get the right length than I wanted.  I used a 2" hem, which is unusual for me, but very much a part of fashion during that time.

I wouldn't say that this pattern is more difficult than today's patterns.  I would rate it about the same in difficulty, style, and overall appearance.

Pattern Description:  Vintage Misses Dress with front yoke and short set in sleeves.  Front and center seaming with center back zipper.  Dress is underlined with interfaced belt and contrasting front panel.

Pattern Sizing: 18 1/2.  I graded in between a 16 and the 18 1/2

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?   Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I liked that I almost got my birth year with this one and I love the look because it is so easy to fall into today's fashions.  Here is a current pattern that reminds me of this pattern.

Fabric Used:  Double Knit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I had to cut the length as previously stated.  I didn't like how long the pattern was.  I had to vary in the bustline and waist between a 16 and 18 1/2 to get the correct alteration sizing .

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and Yes.

Conclusion:   Overall this was a great pattern.  I didn't realize the symmetry between this pattern and the Butterick pattern at first, but they are very much alike.  The little belt was something that gave an opportunity to contrast with the center panel.  I used black buttons to tie it all together.  This is also a pattern that I would suggest to a beginner and I wouldn't say search the ends of the earth for a vintage pattern because the listed pattern is very much like this one.

I really had fun with this vintage pattern.  If you haven't had the opportunity to sew a vintage pattern, try one.  It will take you back to a time when life was simpler and making your on clothes was the "Cool" thing to do.

Until next time,  Lots Of Love