Friday, July 29, 2016

Pattern Review Vintage Contest - Simplicity 2087


These last couple of weeks I have been busy busy busy and I decided to throw my hat into the ring with Sewing Pattern Review's Vintage Contest.  I was actually working on doing my studio opening when I decided to take a break and run myself into a frazzle with this contest.  I love just about anything vintage and when I saw this contest I knew it was something that I really wanted to do.  Needless to say, I went back and forth trying to figure out if I should do it, or should I just let it pass me by, but I also knew that If I didn't go in at this point, I would not be doing anything vintage any time soon.

So, I entered the contest and I have a little something for you to look at while I take a breath  and start up again.  My pattern of choice was Vintage Simplicity 2087

From looking at this pattern you can tell why I chose this one.  It has something that just appealed to me from the moment I put my eyes on it.  I loved the sleeves first and foremost.  I thought it was kind of interesting how they billowed from the shoulders and the waist just accentuated the sleeves dramatic showing.  Enough about my little fantasy rant.

Here's my review and a few pictures.  The model is my Mother and boy getting her to cotton up to the camera is a chore...  LOL.

 Muslin Prep.
To style our vintage look Mommy had an original Anne Laurie purse from the 1960s.  I know it doesn't necessarily go with the 40s theme, but it was vintage so I went with it and she pulled it out on me at the last minute.  I fell in love with it.
 My Mommy is full of surprises and this little treasure was a sweet surprise to me.  Isn't it just the cutest thing?!!  I can sense a treasure hunt in the near future,,,,I love it!!
This is a look at the neck and shoulder sleeve.
 Shoulder pleat prep and lining.

The Review
Pattern Description: Vintage Misses dress with the front sleeves cut as one into the bodice and a back sleeve seam.  It has shoulder tucks to make a draped sleeve.  The skirt is gathered in the front with pockets.  The neckline is shaped in the front or it can be a high neckline.

Pattern Sizing:The pattern size was a 14.  It was altered to roughly an 18.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I kind of think it did.  I don't know why I kept trying to add pleats to the skirt.?

Were the instructions easy to follow? Well, the instructions were all but useless.  I could not see a need for bias tape on the sleeves when I was using a soft lightweight fabric.  I believe if I had made the tape from the fabric I might wouldn't have resisted the bias tape to hem the sleeve.  There were several suggestions within the instructions that just didn't go with how I sew today.  I also believe that a heavier fabric would have made a difference in the usage of bias tape.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the idea of sewing something from yesterday.  Vintage patterns have a way of really connecting me to the past.  It make me work harder, but the over all feeling is so great.  I can't say that there was anything that I didn't like.  I just enjoyed the whole process.  

Fabric Used: A lightweight poly/crepe with a poly lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Wooh,,, I had a size 14 pattern which was from c. 1943 or somewhere thereabouts.  I figured I would have to size up about 2" from the beginning.

Bodice- The first alterations was the neckline.  I nor my mother liked how high the neckline was and we couldn't see how today's woman would be able to put on a whole dress without a longer zipper.  So, I lowered the neckline by 1" and took the 9" zipper to a 22" and utilized the back seam.  My mother's shoulders were too wide for the waistline once I joined all the pieces together (muslin).  I thought about all the small alterations that I was doing to the neckline and realized that the pattern was not as long in the front as today's patterns (15").  When I measured my mother's direct front she was 17" and that was why the muslin looked so high in the front.  So, I added 2,5" to the bodice front.

Bodice Back- With the back panels I had to lengthen them as well and move the back darts.  I moved the darts to meet with the seam on the skirt back.  The pattern didn't exactly call for this, but it was more appealing to my eye that they should match.  Then I add 1" at the shoulders the true up the shoulder opening.

Sleeves- The sleeves were kind of easy, but crazy.  There were pleat indentions that I was intent on following to a T, but quickly found out that nothing was going to match with the way that I had them altered at first.  So, I added the 1" that I had at the shoulders to the front and back sleeve sections and found that that made the sleeves more pleasing to me.  I also stopped trying to make the pleats go all the way around the sleeve.  I was trying to make the pleats appear as they were in the cover photo, but I don't think it could have been done without sewing the pleat all the way from the top to the bottom.  

Skirt- Once I completed my bodice, I then began to grade the skirt.  I didn't have to do much to it because my mother's waist was almost on point.  I added 1" to all the skirt panels then went back and marked all of my seam allowances.  This gave plenty of hip room to accommodate a zipper.

Hem- I hemmed with a 1" blind hem and turned under the lining by 1/2".  This allowed the skirt to be really flowy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I enjoyed the experience, but the vintage patterns are not the same as today's women or patterns.  I'd like to think that I might would.  My recommendation for this pattern is that if you like a challenge for OOD patterns and really want to test your skills, this pattern is an easy way to go.  I do recommend it, but only if you are ready.

Conclusion:   Overall, I really enjoyed this pattern and the experience of yesterday that I got while putting it together.  I wouldn't take anything for the sizing alterations and body configurations that I take with me from this project.  The changes that I made I believe exemplifies the body of the pattern and I think that I kept in line with the designer's intent for this pattern.  I did a lot of research on the 1940s women's fashion before I began this project a few days ago and felt that this was the pattern for me.  My belief is that vintage patterns have a real way of testing you and then it turns back around and gives you so much joy in your finished project from an authentic vintage pattern.

I had lots of fun with this pattern.  If you haven't tried an authentic vintage pattern, try one and see if it doesn't give you a challenge.  Until next time...

Lots Of Love

Sunday, July 10, 2016

New Look 6434 An Eyelet's Tale


I'm back today with a top from New Look that caught my eye a while back.  My dilemma was that the blouse in the cover photo was so interesting to me.  I wanted to mimic that look, but I couldn't really find the fabric that was used to make it and so, I had to settle for something that I thought would be just as interesting as the cover photo.

New Look 6434 is my pattern of the day.   This pattern for some reason was really cute in all views.  In my mind, I had to have the main photo top, but finding a lace or some other matching fabric that looked like that was proving to be a task.  Not to be outdone with the whole thing I just went with what I had and tried to follow the fabric suggestions by going with a nice Eyelet.

Here's a look at my final top version.
I chose to take this top to a very casual look but with a kick.  I added a cool straw hat that was trimmed in lace and feathers.  I had simple jewelry with a little Boho flair and threw in a gorgeous pair of heels that were made from denim. 
After I had completed my top I was very pleased with how it had turned out.  The pattern suggestion to use a gallon edge eyelet seemed to work very well for this top.  I did make one small adjustment (in the review) which made this top appropriate for me.  Matching this top with a pair of dark colored jeans and a really kool pair of denim sandals (1, 2, 3)  made my look completely impressive to me.

The Review

Pattern Description:  Misses top pattern with elbow length sleeve, short sleeves with contrast band, sleeveless with flounce hem and short sleeve lace top with sleeve flounce. 

Pattern Sizing:  10 - 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Excellent instructions, Yes.

Fabric Used:  Eyelet

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Once I saw how sheer the light colored eyelet was I decided to make a cropped underlining.  I used the pattern itself and measured under my arm to get the exact length of how long I wanted the lining to be (10").  I joined the shoulders together (all pieces) sewed each side seam separately and then hemmed the lining.  I didn't have to hem the top piece because it had a finished edge already.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, just to see what comes up with the other different fabrics.  Yes.  This is a good beginner pattern and a quick wardrobe builder.

Conclusion:  I love this simple easy blouse pattern.  It was easy to construct and it leaves room to explore.  I believe it can be used by all skill levels and can become a staple pattern.  I used a gallon edge eyelet, but I would seriously consider other fabrics to see where I could take this look and pattern.

Well, I'm off to the next one, but as always, I enjoy our time together.  Thank you for joining me today and Until next time...

Lots Of Love

Friday, July 1, 2016

Blue Simplicity 8094 DIY Review


I'm back today with my 4th of July outfit.  I found the cutest pairing with Simplicity 8094.  I was looking for something light and breezy, but I didn't want shorts or a dress.  I've had this pattern for a minute, but couldn't find the time to put it to fabric.

The traditional colors for the 4th are Red, White, and Blue.  I know you might think that I've missed my mark without red. but trust me, I've got my red  And I don't normally show my patriotic colors so vividly.  I actually think blue jeans are so appropriate with a tank top, but this year I'm going for the adult look on the 4th.

I had recently gotten some fabric in from Fabric Mart and I had a nice piece of ITY with blue and white stripes in that shipment.  My first initial thought was a dress, but when I looked at this pattern my mind quickly rearranged things to fit a pair of exquisite leggings into my closet.  I don't know which one I like more, the top or the pants.

Here we go.

 The Review

Pattern Description:   Misses’ knit tunic with length variations, with or without slits and pockets. Pattern also includes shorts and legging

Pattern Sizing:  12-20

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes

Fabric Used:  ITY Jersey

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I lengthened the back of View F and shaped it to give a shirt tail effect.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, Yes

Conclusion:  I loved this pattern.  It was an easy fix and the leggings were totally awesome.  I don't normally feel so strongly about leggings because I have tried other patterns before and they always seem to lack something ( either too baggy, waistline too high, legs too long ), but these leggings were a perfect fit for me.  There weren't any alterations needed for these.  I liked the long look of view C, but felt that I wouldn't wear that view as much as a shorter version, so I altered the back of view F at the back bottom because I didn't want the squared off back.  I think it was a good choice for me and it made my top very flowy.
 The instructions were very easy to read and understand. I would recommend it to all who love an easy challenge.

I hope everyone has a beautiful and safe 4th of July.  Have fun and until next time...

Lot Of Love